As explained by founder Ben Gorham, the location of Byredo‘s first store in London resonates with the luxury brand’s identity.
“Initially London was top of my list for opening a store – it was one of our first markets and is one of our strongest. But as a company we’re quite specific when it comes to finding the right space and we just hadn’t found it. So we waited. With retail you need to have patience,” explained Gorham. “We tried out all of the luxury locations but they didn’t resonate with Byredo as a brand. But Soho is a place where all the creatives and young editors hang out, so we liked the idea of the area. There’s a strong arts, fashion and music scene. It checks all the boxes.”
The store is designed by Gorham in collaboration with Swedish studio Halleroed. “I’ve been working with Christian (co-founder of Halleroed) since I started – he’s like the rational part of my brain. He’s great when it comes to proportion, and he’s a great filter and funnel,” said Gorham.
Initially constructed in 1885, the five-story building spans 2152 sq ft (200 sq m). Noting how London experiences grey overcast seasons, the building’s exterior was painted white so that the store would attract eyes. In addition to allowing natural light to illuminate the space, the large windows also invite the passerby to window shop and admire the beauty of the store.
Connecting the floors is a floating staircase with terrazzo steps.
In line with Byredo’s dedication to quality and detail, the walls are finished in a light brown plaster by one craftsman for consistency. The second floor features Danish oak boards that emulate a warm atmosphere. To fit the boards, a Danish craftsman was flown in as a specialist was required to consider factors such as changes in the wood due to temperature and environment.
“We’re very much about the details. It’s still very emotional and we’re not a brand that’s run by algorithms,” stated Gorham. “What you see in the store… like the plaster, that’s maybe the tenth iteration. We like to launch things when they’re ready, when they’re done.”
“I always imagine retail to be accessible and warm, as an emotion rather than a tonality. I wanted to present a different offering to what’s found in our department stores, with a narrative and dialogue with our clients and customers,” explained Gorham. “This is a place that you can come and learn about things, without feeling the pressure to buy, while avoiding the hustle and bustle of the larger crowd. It’s a cliché, but I want it to feel like we’re inviting people into our home. I think luxury has become quite cold, so here we wanted to do things a bit differently.”
Interestingly, an entire floor is kept bare and reserved as a space that can serve multiple functions.
“I don’t know exactly what we’ll do with the space yet,” admitted Gorham. “The working title has been ‘access: no access’. I love the idea that all these collaborations have a place. Like what we did with Virgil Abloh, creating Elevator Music, that could have inhabited that space. It’s also a space we can invite people doing interesting things to inhabit. I think people need change and to be inspired.”
“Whether its handbags, perfume, packaging or eyewear, I always design objects with their retail environment in mind. I hope the London store will offer a unique experience that’s tightly tied to the origin of what we’re making,” added Gorham.
