Amid the COVID-19 pandemic, conversations on climate change and endless talk of sustainability, the fashion industry is witnessing a dramatic disruption in 2020. From global environmental movement Extinction Rebellion protesting to end the cycle of fashion weeks in New York to Giorgio Armani livestreaming his collection from an empty theatre at Milan Fashion Week, we’ve seen far too many surprising, never-experienced-before events take place this year.
What is the way forward? Cues can be borrowed from Copenhagen Fashion Week’s sustainability manifesto that includes reducing the carbon footprint by 50 percent by 2022 and by 2023, to only allow brands that prove their environmentally-friendly approach to showcase.
While major fashion capitals need to follow in these footsteps and implement stronger policies to counter the industry’s detrimental impact on the environment, some designers and brands are putting their foot down by fully embracing recycling, upcycling, and waste reduction.
Ahead, here are nine names—designers both renowned and new—who stood up for change, for compassion and for circularity in the fashion industry.
1. Stella McCartney
Renowned for her vegan approach to fashion, McCartney used satire as a medium to express herself: Animals are not for humans to wear. In her fall 2020 collection at Paris Fashion Week, the British designer sent models dressed as animals as a closing act to highlight her 100% vegan designs.
2. Maison Margiela
Creative director John Galliano took to upcycling his fall 2020 collection at Paris Fashion Week where he handpicked pieces from charity shops and breathed new life into them. The result? A spectacular, one-of-a-kind collection with a considerably low carbon footprint.
3. Marine Serre
At Paris Fashion Week, Marine Serre’s 50% upcycled collection featured elements suggestive of a fire: burning motifs, masks, denim pieces with a scorched look. The 28-year-old designer may be new to the game, but her thought-provoking showcase sure made the point clear: Our planet is on fire, and we need to take action NOW.
4. Jean Paul Gaultier
The designer, who presented his last ever show at Paris Fashion Week, created a 200+ collection of upcycled haute couture pieces for his spring/summer 2020 showcase, each one given a makeover in true Gaultier style. The line made use of fabrics and materials from his archives as well, giving recycling a big nod.
5. Gabriela Hearst
For her fall 2020 showcase at New York Fashion Week, Uruguayan designer proved that an entire collection can be made from waste products. “Repurpose with Purpose” championed recycling and upcycling through old textiles like vintage Turkish rugs that were transitioned into coats you’d consider heirlooms.
6. Richard Malone
This young designer is setting a strong example for reputed brands to follow in his footsteps by incorporating transparency and waste reduction in production processes. At London Fashion Week, Malone presented the media with a mission statement on responsible practices—from using only organic and plant-derived dyes to paying his artisans £25/hour—he was partaking in.
7. Anya Hindmarch
At London Fashion Week, the designer took it upon herself to spread awareness about the polluting side-effects of single-use plastic. One piece worthy of mention is the “I Am a Plastic Bag” tote that was made using recycled plastic bottles and coated with recycled plastic windshields.
8. Yuima Nakazato
The Japanese designer worked with recycled silk to produce his couture garments and also made use of glass bottles to birth stunning jewellery in his spring/summer 2020 collection at Paris Fashion Week. Nakazato also played with a new production method of biosmocking that helps lower waste while cutting fabrics.
9. Ronald van der Kemp
Recognized for his sustainable couture, the Dutch designer fashioned a new spring/summer 2020 collection from recycled, vintage clothing, leftover waste material from previous shows and even samples supplied to him.
Now, if only every designer could inject ingenuity in their collections, the fashion system wouldn’t be as broken as it is today.
This article contains affiliate links. Learn more.
